What Is Cashmere? The Complete Guide to the World's Finest Fiber

Cashmere is a natural fibre obtained from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, animals that live on the high plateaus of Asia, where winters are brutally cold. To survive, these goats grow a double coat: a long, coarse outer layer that sheds wind and rain, and beneath it a hidden layer of ultra-fine, downy fibres that trap heat — that underlayer is cashmere.

At Vinci Cashmere, every piece — from our 100% cashmere sweaters to our luxury cashmere scarves — is made from Grade-A cashmere sourced in Inner Mongolia, one of the most prized origins in the world.

Where Does Cashmere Come From?

Almost all of the world's cashmere comes from a small number of cold, high-altitude regions. According to Textile Exchange, Mongolia and Inner Mongolia together supply roughly 85% of the world's cashmere, with smaller quantities from Iran, Afghanistan and other parts of Central Asia. The harsh climate is exactly the point: the colder the winter, the finer and warmer the down the goats produce.

Cashmere is also genuinely rare. Global output of dehaired cashmere fibre is only around 6,500 tonnes a year — less than 0.1% of all textile fibres produced worldwide.

What Makes Cashmere So Soft and Warm?

It comes down to the fibre itself. A cashmere fibre measures just 14–19 microns in diameter — several times finer than a human hair, and far finer than ordinary sheep's wool (typically 20–40 microns). Under US labelling rules (the Wool Act, enforced by the FTC), a fibre can only be called cashmere if its average diameter is 19 microns or less, with almost no coarse fibres mixed in. The finest grades — often called Grade A — are finer still, around 14–16 microns, and at least 34–36 mm long.

Two things follow from that fineness. First, the feel: it is coarse fibre ends (over 30 microns) that prickle skin, and good cashmere has virtually none, which is why it can be worn directly against bare skin. Second, the warmth: fine fibres trap more still air per gram, so cashmere delivers exceptional warmth at a fraction of the weight of wool — a thin cashmere scarf can be warmer than a chunky woollen one. Length matters too: longer fibres (34 mm and above) make stronger yarn that pills less and lasts for years.

How Is Cashmere Made?

Cashmere production is slow, manual work, and the key steps are:

Combing. In late spring, when the goats naturally moult, herders in Mongolia and Inner Mongolia comb out the undercoat by hand (in some regions the fleece is shorn instead). Sorting. The raw fibre is sorted by hand for colour and fineness. Washing. The fibre is scoured to remove dirt, grease and plant matter. Dehairing. The most important step: machines and skilled hands separate the fine down from the coarse guard hairs. Dyeing, spinning and knitting. The pure down is dyed, carded, spun into yarn, then knitted or woven into garments and finished.

Here is the part most people don't realise: one goat yields only about 250–300 grams of raw fibre a year, and after washing and dehairing roughly half is lost — leaving around 150 grams of pure cashmere. A single sweater takes the annual yield of about 4–6 goats. That, more than anything, is why real cashmere costs what it does.

Cashmere vs. Wool: What's the Difference?

Both are animal fibres, but they come from different animals and behave very differently. Wool comes from sheep and is thicker (20–40 microns), springy and hard-wearing, but can feel itchy. Cashmere comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats, is much finer (14–19 microns), softer against the skin and warmer for its weight — but more delicate, and far scarcer. In short: wool is the everyday workhorse; cashmere is the fibre you choose for softness and warmth without bulk.

What Does Ply Mean?

Ply is the number of cashmere threads that are twisted together to make the cashmere yarn. When two threads are twisted together, that is referred to as 2-ply and when three threads are twisted together that is 3-ply etc. Cashmere is very fine hair so the material is strengthened when twisted together. Higher ply means a warmer, more durable piece — ideal for our ribbed cashmere sweaters.

What Is Gauge?

Gauge refers to the number of stitches or rows per inch and is a measure of how tightly the item is knitted. At the same ply, the lower the gauge number, the heavier the item is and the higher the gauge number, the lighter the item will be. Fine-gauge cashmere is perfect for lightweight cashmere shawls and wraps you can wear year-round.

Why Does Cashmere Pill — and Is It Normal?

Yes, some pilling is normal, even on excellent cashmere. Where the garment rubs, loose short fibres work their way out and tangle into tiny balls. It is most noticeable in the first few wears and then settles down. Long-fibre cashmere pills far less, which is one reason fibre length matters when you buy. To deal with pills, lay the garment flat and gently run a cashmere comb or fabric shaver over it in one direction — never pull pills off by hand, which tears out more fibre. Resting a piece for 24–48 hours between wears also helps the fibres recover.

How to Care for Cashmere

Cashmere rewards gentle care and will last for decades if you give it. Hand-wash in cool water with a cashmere or wool detergent (or dry clean), never wring it, and dry it flat on a towel away from heat. Fold rather than hang to keep its shape. Store it clean, in a sealed bag or box with cedar to keep moths away — moths target soiled fibres first. And rotate your pieces: a day or two of rest between wears lets the fibres spring back.

How to Tell If Cashmere Is Real

There is no reliable kitchen test. The popular burn test can't distinguish cashmere from wool (both are protein fibres and burn the same way), and the "ring test" only proves a fabric is thin. What actually works:

• Read the label. By law, cashmere content must be declared — and under the Wool Act definition, only true sub-19-micron goat down may be called cashmere. Vague labels like "pashmina" (not a recognised fibre term, read our cashmere vs. pashmina guide) or "cashmere feel" are red flags.
• Use price sense. A sweater needs the annual clip of 4–6 goats. If a "100% cashmere" sweater costs less than a wool one, something other than cashmere is in it.
• Feel and look. Real cashmere feels soft but never slippery or shiny, springs back when gently stretched, and develops a soft matte halo — not a glossy surface.

Ready to experience the difference? Explore Vinci Cashmere's full collection of cashmere sweaters, cashmere scarves, and cashmere hats — crafted for those who believe in timeless quality and everyday elegance.